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谷歌和Levi’s合作的智能牛仔装会红吗

本文摘要:Standing in Levi’ssweaty atelier, where the jeans maker experiments with new designs, just blocksfrom the San Francisco Bay, Paul Dillinger pulls on a new denim jacket. Createdfor cyclists, it has a drop-back tail, so your back isn’t left

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Standing in Levi’ssweaty atelier, where the jeans maker experiments with new designs, just blocksfrom the San Francisco Bay, Paul Dillinger pulls on a new denim jacket. Createdfor cyclists, it has a drop-back tail, so your back isn’t left exposed; stormcuffs, to stop air blowing up your sleeves; and, unexpectedly, thetechnological equivalent of a magic wand.保罗.狄林格(Paul Dillinger)车站在牛仔装生产商李维斯(Levi’s)出现异常炎热的新装试验室里,正在试穿一件牛仔夹克新的样装。这件牛仔装专为自行车运动员打造出:避免参赛车手遮住后背的圆尾形后挂(drop-back tail)以及避免陷风的防风式袖口,这款牛仔夹克有如从天而降的魔杖,无所不能。“What spells would you like to casttoday? he laughs, tapping on his left arm, where sensors have been woven intothe fabric and a colour-changing light is snapped on to the cuff.想到这件新装今天能施展什么魔法?他敲打着左胳膊大笑问道,传感器缝进了牛仔面料中,飞舞颜色的光束照射了衣服袖口处。

The sleeve isenchanted: inside is technology that can help cyclists do everything fromanswer phone calls to avoid getting lost. 袖口也如同被施了魔法:内置的高科技能让车手构建从接听电话到查找方位的各项功能。Cyclists can usetheir smartphone to set up the jacket so it recognises favourite callers. 车手可以用自己的智能手机对夹克展开设置,夹克就能辨识出有车手最常用的电话联系人;通过谷歌地图(Google Maps)获取的明确方位信息,They can then tapor swipe their sleeve to send a text saying what time they are likely to arrivehome — drawn from data on their location via Google Maps.车手可以轻击或重击袖口来发送到约何时到家的短信。The jacket — dueout in spring 2017 — is part of a new generation of wearables aiming to maketechnology fashionable. 这款夹克预计2017年春季发售,它归属于新一代科技时尚化的可穿着产品。

Fashion has beenexperimenting with technology in high profile one-off garments for a while. 时尚界曾多次在知名品牌的重复使用服装上试验高科技,但无法构建大规模市场化应用于。But it has not yetbrought that technology to a larger market. People were wowed by the Marchesadress — developed with IBM’s artificial intelligence system, Watson — thatchanged colour when people tweeted, which Karolina Kurkova wore to the Met Galathis year. IBM用于Watson人工智能系统设计的玛切萨(Marchesa)裙子让时尚拥趸如痴如醉,它能根据Twitter用户的情绪变化动态转换颜色,超模卡罗莱娜.库科娃(Karolina Kurkova)穿著它参与了今年的纽约大都会博物馆慈善晚会(Met Gala)。Make Fashion, agroup of Canadian artists and engineers, have spent five years creating playfuldesigns such as Gamer Girls dresses — where the dress changes depending onwhether they win or lose. 由加拿大一些艺术家与工程师构成的团队Make Fashion花上了五年时间设计Gamer Girls这类妙趣横生的女裙——它能根据胜败结果转换颜色。

But thus farwidespread uptake of such technologies has been slow.但迄今为止,对此类高科技时装的市场认同度依然非常较低。Even technologycompanies led by Apple, the most design conscious in the industry, havefloundered in creating products that appeal beyond their geeky base. 即使是苹果公司引导的高科技公司研发的产品,其影响力也依然没有走进自家的创新工作室。

The Apple Watchoffers a wide range of straps, including a collection handmade by Hermesartisans in France.苹果手表(Apple Watch)发售的表带样式五花八门,其中就还包括由爱马仕(Hermes)设计师在法国手工打造出的一个系列。Now some fashionhouses are starting to form partnerships with technology companies to swapexpertise and fill in blind spots. 如今一些时尚品牌开始与科技类公司创建合作关系,以交换条件对方的专业技能,填补自身盲区。Tech manufacturersare teaching fashion companies about how to make chips and batteries thin,while fashion houses are teaching techies about the trials of making many sizesand ensuring a teched-up garment is fit to launder. 科技类公司向时装公司传授制作小型芯片与电池的技术,而时装公司则向对方传授设计有所不同型号时装以及保证高科技时装耐洗的诀窍。

Chipmaker Intelhas worked with watchmakers Fossil and Tag Heuer and eyewear company Luxottica,while fitness-tracker maker Fitbit has teamed up with both Tory Burch andclothing company Public School.芯片生产商英特尔(Intel)合力Fossil、豪雅(TAG Heuer)等腕表品牌以及全球仅次于的眼镜公司Luxottica,而穿着式健美追踪器生产商Fitbit与汤丽柏琦(Tory Burch)以及时装品牌Public School出了合作伙伴。Earlier this monthduring New York Fashion Week Michael Kors announced its first foray intowearable tech. 九月初的纽约时装周(New York Fashion Week)期间,迈克.科尔斯(Michael Kors)首次宣告进占高科技可穿着设备领域。

In partnershipwith Google, the brand has unveiled a smart watch based on its bestsellinganalogue collection. 在自己最畅销的analogue指针系列手表基础上,它与谷歌合作发售了一款智能腕表。The new Dylan andBradshaw models include features such as notification functions, maps, and avoice-directed Google search facility. It will retail for £329 — about £100more than the analogue version近期发售的Dylan男表与Bradshaw女表享有通报、地图以及语音定向谷歌探寻等功能,其零售价为329英镑,比analogue系列腕表约贵100英镑。For Sidney Chang,the principal of business development at Google, these collaborations are anessential part of the company’s future. 在谷歌业务开发部主管Sidney Chang显然,与时尚公司的合作对谷歌未来的发展至关重要。

We’re very nimble,he explained during the launch last week. 我们不会伺机而动。We’ve alreadypartnered with Fossil, Tag Heuer and Nixon on smartwatches, but each brandrepresents a different customer and a different set of criteria. 在不久前的新品发布会上,他这样说,谷歌已与Fossil、豪雅以及Nixon通引了智能腕表,但每个品牌又代表了各自有所不同的消费群体与技术标准。We love thediversity of working with different brands, and developing wearables thatreflect your identity. 我们讨厌与风格各异的有所不同品牌合作,研发体现品牌自身特色的可穿着产品。Of course, we havethe physics to enable these technologies, but we can’t bring the people, or theparty, or the associations.当然,谷歌有科技产品化的雄厚实力,但没消费者、群体或团体等人脉资源。

If Google Glasswas an excellent example of a great idea that looked tragically uncool, thesenew collaborations should go some way to bridging the gulf between function andfashionability. 如果说谷歌眼镜是绝妙的点子研发成土里土气产品的典范,那么高科技公司与时尚品牌的珠联璧合某种程度填补了功能与时尚之间的鸿沟。Google gets accessto a younger, more image-focused market and all the benefits of a high-endmarketing campaign. 谷歌的受众是那些形象平等主义的年轻人,也是高端营销活动的仅次于受益者。The fashion housegets to bring its brand to life in new ways, to a new audience. Everyone wins.时尚公司构建了品牌的脱胎换骨,又减少了新的消费群体,这对双方来说是双赢之荐。

Google was alsoLevis’ partner in developing the cycling jacket, bringing together Google’sAdvanced Technology and Projects team in Silicon Valley, with the brand’sin-house skunk works.谷歌也是李维斯牛仔研发自行车手夹克外套的合作者,谷歌坐落于硅谷的前沿科技攻关小组与李维斯的研发团队(skunk works)构建了珠联璧合。Dillinger, Levi’sglobal product innovation lead, says the partnership worked because Google camewilling to learn from Levi’s as much as the other way round. And there wereconsiderable challenges: the technology had to survive the aggressive testingconditions demanded of the denim before it gets into stores.李维斯产品创意部全球主管狄林格说道双方的合作之所以顺利,是因为双方都不愿从对方身上取长补短,当然双方的合作也面对艰难挑战:谷歌的高科技必需遭受寄居牛仔装投放市场前的严苛测试。

We had the bestcapabilities of the two companies frankly, says Dillinger. 平心而论,我们构建了集双方之优点于一身。We are not verygood at technology and they are not very good at garments.狄林格说道,高科技并非我们的强项,而服装也不是谷歌的强项。Sandra Lopez,vice-president at Intel’s new technology group, has both skillsets: she studiedtextiles and clothes marketing, and then went on to work in tech, including atAdobe and Macromedia, before arriving at Intel.英特尔新技术部副总裁桑德拉.洛佩兹(Sandra Lopez)则是两者均补:她的专业是纺织品服装营销,毕业后则在高科技公司工作,来英特尔之前,曾谋职于Adobe与全球仅次于的网络多媒体软件公司Macromedia。

Intel bringsretailers into its Silicon Valley office to discuss the challenges and has evenhad its own wearables shown at New York Fashion Week. 英特尔把零售商邀至其硅谷总部,联合探究面对的挑战,它甚至把自己设计的穿着设备在纽约时装周上展览。For example, itworked on the MICA (My Intelligent Communication Accessory) designed by OpeningCeremony and launched in 2014. 比方说,它智能化了Opening Ceremony设计的MICA手镯,并于2014年发售。The chunkybracelet, with precious gems and Ayers snakeskin sends the user notificationsfrom SMS and social apps.这串沉甸甸的手镯用宝石与Ayers蛇皮装饰,可接管短信及社交应用软件的通报。

In the last yearand a half Lopez says she has begun to see real progress as more fashion housesare building their own research and development departments to examine how touse technology in their collections. 过去一年半里,随着更加多时尚公司自辟高科技的研发部门,洛佩兹说道自己就已看见贯彻进展。Sometimes, shesays, the key is to strip down the technology to streamline a product, so itdoesn’t need as many buttons or as large a battery.她说道有时候最关键的是科技助力产品的小型化,这样一来就构建了按钮最多简化与电池最小化。Engineers like topush technological boundaries — bring in a bunch of features — that is theirmindset. 工程技术人员注目于技术突破——那是他们的‘癖好’。

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We see this whenwe are creating a product for a young woman, aged 18 to 35, and asking whatwould be relevant for her? Engineers want to add more tech for tech’s sake, buta designer with a customer-centric mindset thinks ‘what is really needed?’为18-35岁的年长女人设计产品时,这种特性反映得一清二楚,这些产品与她们的关联度究竟有多大,很有一点厘清。工程技术人员期望科技运用得多多益善,但设计师考虑到的则是客户是上帝的‘消费者市场需求平等主义’原则。

Designers are alsolearning from a set of data they never had before: information on how acustomer actually uses the product. 设计师还从之前未曾掌控的数据中受益,比如消费者用于产品的现实信息。On the MICA,designers assumed their audience would prioritise the social notifications — infact wearers were using the fitness functions much more than expected.在MICA智能腕表上,设计师本指出消费者不会优先用于其社交通报功能,而事实上用于最少的毕竟健美跟踪功能,这大大出乎意料设计师所料。Those aha momentswere never possible before, once someone had left the store. 顾客过去从门店购完物离开了后,那种证悟时刻(aha moments,思维过程中一种类似的、感觉的体验,期间不会忽然对之前并不明朗的某个局面产生了解的了解。

)未曾有之。What does it meanfor merchandising strategy? Should design get sportier? Lopez asks.科技对广告宣传策略意味著什么?设计否应当更为花哨些?洛佩兹这样问道。Fashion andtechnology are edging closer to a relationship that could produce more stylishwearables, but a future where every wardrobe needs its own chargers still looksa way off.时尚与科技愈发亲密无间,可谓了更加时尚的可穿着产品,但普通服装构建科技化仍然任重而道远。Carolina Milanesi,a consumer technology analyst at Silicon Valley market research firm CreativeStrategies, says the tech industry has failed to make wearables fashionableenough to expand beyond a niche of — often male — early adopters. 硅谷市场分析公司Creative Strategies消费科技分析师卡罗琳娜.米拉内西(CarolinaMilanesi)说道,科技在构建可穿着产品时尚化方面差强人意,接受者依然仅限于先期设宴者这一小撮人而已(一般来说为男性)。

As a segment,technology doesn’t do gender differentiation very well so far. 作为市场区隔(Segment,即把消费者依有所不同市场需求、特征区分成若干个有所不同的群体,而构成各个有所不同的消费群)的一部分,科技迄今为止,在性别差异化方面做到得仍不尽如人意。You don’t need itwhen a PC is a PC — and you don’t need to change it if I’m a man or a woman —but it is different if I’m wearing it, she said.就事论事时需要分析性别差异——也需要因性别而改动数据,但穿着后的效果就大相径庭了。她说道。


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